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Building: Building manual: Finishing

Updated Saturday, August 23, 2008 12:34 AM

Epoxy needs UV-protection. An opaque color is therefore the best option. But for most it would be unacceptable to hide the result of many hours' hard work under paint. Therefore, over to the next best alternative - varnish with UV-inhibitors.

I prefer a two-pot urethane coating, high gloss and tough and with a superb longevity - 10 to 15 years on a canoe, that in contrast to most boats often spends most of its time under a roof. Traditional oil-based varnish (Spar varnish) last approximately half that time. You can switch from two-pot to one pot at any time, but not the other way around, unless you remove all the old varnish. The strong solvents of the urethane coatings solve the old varnish base, resulting in a flat and grainy finish - irrespective of how many coats you apply.

To make sure the varnish of your choice has UV-inhibitors it is often enough to look at the price tag - if you are shocked it isprobably what you are looking for. A slightly more scientific way is to check with the manufacturer.

Three or four net coats is normally sufficient to protect the epoxy - that is four to five coats plus light sanding in between. One further advantage with some two-pot coatings is that they can be applied in short intervals without sanding. I have often done three coats during day one (morning, midday and afternoon finishing a couple of hours before dew), sanded lightly with 180 grit plus two coats on day two and completed the schedule with a light sanding with 220 grit and a finishing coat with a high quality brush on day three. Normally I do this outdoors on a calm day without too much pollen in the air. Insects may be a problem, but they are easy to remove with buffing. In a workshop it is not easy to avoid dust contaminating the surfaces - but careful cleaning and a little water sprinkled over walls and roof may work - perhaps supplemented by a plastic sheet stapled to the roof above the canoe.

The traditional schedule below may sound a bit ambitious and can be simplified, or of course be developed, after your own experience or perseverence. To follow it, though, results in a first class finish.

  1. Sand with 120-papper on cork or with oscillating sander.
  2. Sand with 180-papper until all scratches are out.
  3. Brush carefully clean and brush on a thin layer of varnish.
  4. Sand with 220-papper.
  5. Vacuum the surface and the floor.
  6. Rub the surface with a cloth dampened in alcohol.
  7. Rub the surface with a sticky cloth to remove dust. Spray a little water on the floor in order to settle dust and change to dust free clothing.
  8. Paint on next coat of varnish.
  9. Repeat step 4-8 according to your needs and patience. (With 2-components urethane one can often apply two or three coats between sanding - but sand always always before the last coat).

Congratulations! Go paddling.

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Referenser:

Böcker om båtbygge kan du köpa från Wooden Boat

Comments

1 7/8/2008 12:04 PM Wrote Erik Edelmann

Har du några åsikter om båtvax? Det rekommenderas ju ofta som UV-skydd för glasfiberkanoter men du nämner inte det alternativet här.

2 7/8/2008 3:15 PM Wrote Björn

Båtvax är tveksamt. Så gott som alla båtvaxer (och bilvaxer) innehåller silikon (enligt en tillverkare jag konfronterat finns det silikon i alla vaxer på marknaden). Och har du haft silikon någonstans på kajaken är det nästan omöjligt att förnya ytbehandlingen. Ingen ytbehandling fäster mot silikon och det är ytterst svårt att få bort. Jag känner bara till en silikonlösande kemikalie på marknaden, och den säljs främst till billackerare tillsammans med en diger varningstext. Även med den är det ett herkulesjobb med ytterst otrevliga lösningsmedel att få ytan redo för ny lack.

Jag har vaxat kajaker ibland i samband med mässor och sådant men då har jag blandat själv: carnubavax och bivax, köpta i konstnärsaffärer där jag vet att det är rena produkter.

En kajak vaxade jag med Sonax bilvax för många år sedan. Den har motstått flera försök att lacka om. Varje gång har det uppstått partier där lacken inte förmår fästa utan flyter runt som vattendroppar på en vaxad yta.

Var även försiktig med rubbing och polish. Industrin är väldigt glad i att dutta silikon i alla möjliga konsumentkemikalier - och det blir skinande grant och "underhållsfritt" (vilket översatt till begripliska betyder omöjligt att underhålla). Som sågar med härdade tandspetsar, permanentputsade skor mm. Visst håller det länge men när den initiala fräschören är över är det bara att kasta och köpa nytt.

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