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Sharpie 600

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Sharpie 600

Plans, Sharpie 600 - 250 EUR Purchase

Sharpie 600 is designed as a daysailer and weekender, a use most boats are put to, regardless of their design purpose.

The design brief for Sharpie 600 goes like this:

  1. Daysailor for many: Roomy cockpit (< 200 cm) Comfortable under sail and in a harbor. Everything within reach without passengers being in the way. No boom above the cockpit (with the lug rig). Flexing masts reduce heeling in a gust (also the lug). Easily lowered masts in a tabernacle (gaff rig).
  2. Weekender/Cruiser for two: Comfortable for one, acceptable for two. Provisions for basic cooking. Room for a portable toilet. Usable in bad weather. Some kind of heating for use in early spring or late fall.
  3. Fast: Fast enough to cover considerable distances in a day. Lots of sail (SA/d=21) for ghosting along in a breeze without having to resort to an outboard motor or oars.
  4. Safe: Self-righting after a knockdown. The lug rig reefs without affecting sail balance. Ability to beat away from a lee shore in a blow. If possible unsinkable (with built-in positive flotation).
  5. Small and handy: Should maneuver calmly and smartly under sail, motor or oars. Short, narrow and light (d/l=159) - easily handled on and off a trailer. Low moorage fees - if applicable. Draft not more than 25 cm, allowing sailing on to the beach and drying out upright on the sturdy flat bottom. The rudder and centerboard should lift without damage if you hit bottom.
  6. Pretty: Pretty in a traditional way, under sail and on the beach. To maneuver calmly and smartly under sail, motor or oars.
  7. Low maintenance: Modern wood. Epoxy/glass-sheathed plywood. No permanent installations: electricity, plumbing, motor etc. If fitted with a motor, an outboard is recommended, preferably in a well (but a few Sharpies have been fitted with a small inboard motor under a bridge deck). Easy trailering.
  8. Easy to handle: All conceivable maneuvering on land or in water should be possible for a competent single-hander. With the gaff rig, the mast in a tabernacle should be easily lowered for passing under a bridge, while the lug rig masts are light enough to be handled manually.
  9. Easy to build: Designed for amateur construction, the Sharpie is built on 7 transverse and 2 longitudinal bulkheads, preassembled like a large jig-saw puzzle. To this, bottom-, planking- and deck panels, sheathed in epoxy/glass are glued.

The Sharpie 600 took the third prize in Classic Boat´s design competition in 1996.


A video clip of S/Y Kuling sailing in the south of Norway. (Audun Bull´s website on S/Y Kuling)

Look at the photos of Bernard Goffin's gaff rigged Sharpie 600 to see the building process.

The rigs

The plans show either the lug or the gaff rig and this must be specified when ordering. Both are a bit unusual today, but are excellent on small shallow-draft centerboard boats. They were very common earlier, being easily handled, simple to set up with a minimum of technical gadgets and comfortably sailed singlehandedly.

The gaff sloop

Sharpie 600 med gaffelrigg

The mast of the gaffer sits in a tabernacle and can be lowered and raised in minutes to pass under a bridge. Since most sailors are used to one-mast boats it might seem less challenging than the lugger. The gaff is a way to increase the sail area on a shorter mast and thus reduce weight aloft (the same way full extended battens increase the area aloft on a modern competitive mainsail). A gaff mainsail can be lowered or reefed without pointing the craft into the wind (let go of the throat and peak halyards and the sail comes down regardless of the wind direction). The gaff rig is not as efficient close hauled as a modern rig but makes up for it reaching and running.

The lugger

Sharpie 600 med loggertrigg The lug is an even older type of rig, with several interesting advantages. There is no boom to avoid when jibing and no sail flapping in you face when you stand up in the cockpit. With two masts it is excellent for precision maneuvering under sail; go sideways or backward to a quay, or to turn on a dime. The unstayed masts bend a little in gusts, instead of boat heeling over. The light masts are easy to lift in and out singlehandedly – but of course not as easy as lowering the tabernacled gaff mast. The lug rig was very popular hundred years ago on coastal workboats around the world: efficient, simple and easy to handle with a minimal crew.

The lug rig was my first choice for the sharpie since I was very impressed with the performance of the lug rig on my canoe yawl a couple of years earlier. But many interested builders were not quite confident with such an archaic rig, and I got questions about an alternative. So I drew a gaff sloop. Now, after 15 years, the gaff rig counts for approx 2/3 of the shipped drawings. Many seem to choose the gaff for aesthetic reasons: it looks more ship-ish.

Images

Olle Jeppssons Sharpie under byggnadOlle Jeppssons Kuling – numera seglad av Audun Bull-HansenOlle Jeppssons Sharpie under byggnadUrban Stridsbergs loggertriggade SharpieUrban Stridsbergs loggertriggade SharpieUrban Stridsbergs loggertriggade SharpieOlle Jeppssons Sharpie under byggnadOlle Jeppssons Sharpie – sjösättning i LimhamnOlle Jeppsson (till höger) med sin nya Sharpie i Malmö HamnOlle Jeppssons Sharpie i Malmö HamnS/Y Kuling på tur...Sharpie 600 – Anders OlaussonSharpie 600 – Anders OlaussonSharpie 600 – Anders Olausson

Particulars

Sharpie 600, lines

Length 600 cm
Beam 206 cm
Draft 22/122 cm
Weight 600 kg
Sail area 21 m2
Layout 2 berths, pantry with sink/stove, portable toilet, stowage
Headroom 128 cm (station 5)
Engine 6-12 HP
Intended use Day trips 1-6 persons. Touring 1-2 persons.

Plans

The plan set consists of six sheets (A1 size = 23"x33") with all the information a builder with some experience (e.g. kayak or canoe building) would need to build the boat. Inexperienced builders may need to consult books in basic boatbuilding techniques.

Sheets are:

  1. Lines
  2. Construction details
  3. Sections with a table of offsets
  4. Profile view
  5. Layout
  6. Rigging, masts and sails

The boat is built with plywood – a simple and quick way to achieve strength and a smooth finish – double 12 mm sheets on the bottom, 12 mm on the sides and 9 mm on the deck and house. Wood strip construction is an alternative – though it will be more time-consuming.

Sharpie 600 – structure

The plywood sections and longitudinal bulkheads fit together like a large puzzle, creating a super-stable 3D grid, joined by epoxy fillets. The image above shows the lug version. The ballast is lead sheet glued/screwed to the floor (a thrifty builder without access to a commercial lead-casting foundry perhaps could do the job himself, using old lead tire weights or scrap lead, a charcoal fire and a simple mold – a particle board with wooden battens – but check the environmental policies in your area!). 

Note: The gaff and lug version are on different plans. Please specify which you want when ordering.

Sharpie 600, plans

No building manual is included. For more information on building techniques, please consult one of the books on boat building listed in literature.

Plans, Sharpie 600 - 250 EUR Purchase

More on the Sharpie 600

I frequently get questions about the off-center board, positioned 30 cm to the right of the centerline. It means that the centerboard trunk that usually transforms the cabin of shallow-draft cruisers into two narrow and not very usable spaces is now out of the way, hidden behind the longitudinal bulkhead. The Sharpie 600 is surprisingly roomy.

The offcenterboard...

"But won´t she sail better on one tack?" In practice, you must be a very good sailor to be able to notice any difference. In the good old days, the centerboard was often placed through the planking beside the keel as boat builders did not like cutting holes in the backbone. Thus, my Sharpie follows a respected tradition, although the offset is slightly more than the older custom.

The suggested interior layout is simple and easily maintained, without any installations (electricity, plumbing etc.): a portable toilet can be stored under the cockpit seat or under a hinged seat. The recommended water system is two 25 l jerrycans under the lifting galley countertop – one for fresh water and one to collect the waste water – that are reasonably easy to lift out and fill/empty. An alternate solution is to have two cans for fresh water and to drain the 'gray water' waste through the centerboard trunk. A removable section of the transom can be a perfect place for an outboard motor, or you can arrange something a little more elaborate with a motor well in the aft left corner of the cockpit. Lighting can be LED lamps with dry cells, or LED lamps run on a house battery under the cockpit (in which case a four-stroke outboard motor with an alternator would be best suited)

Suggested layout

The photos below (from Audun Bull in Norway and his S/Y Kuling) show the surprising space that can be achieved in a tiny pocket cruiser when the centerboard is hidden behind the pantry counter.




Sailmarks?

If someone wants to put sailmarks on the sails of their Sharpie, here are a couple of suggestions. They are available as downloads on the resource page. The color can be adjusted to suit the color scheme of the hull.

The gaff version:

sailmark, Sharpie 600, gaff

The lug version:

Sailmark, Sharpie 600, lug

Sharpie 600 – background and history

The Sharpie 600 started as a private project - an idea for a very simple, hassle-free, inexpensive and convenient way for me to spend time at sea. When the design was nearing completion in 1996, the UK magazine Classic Boat launched a design competition with almost the same specifications as those I had set for myself. I submitted my design in the competition and was happy to see that the Sharpie 600 was honored with a third place award.

Sharpie 600 was honored with a third place award in Classic Boat's design contest 1996

Perhaps a centerboard and a mizzen placed off-center were hard to take for English traditionalists. One of the judges commented:

"Björn Thomasson's flat-bottomed 'weekender-for-two' appealed to me for its charming simplicity. At a personal level, I am not entirely comfortable with the asymetry of the off-center board and mizzen. Hang the rudder in a slot to allow for a central mizzen and centre the board and this little lug-rigged cat yawl complete with two-berth cabin, head and galley, would be just right fo a drying mooring. The high aspect ratio lug rig certainly suits the little boat. Allowing for my personal prejudices, I gave it a third place."

Perhaps if I had put the centerboard in the middle (compromising the livable room in the cabin) and centered the mizzen mast (complicating the construction with a non-lifting rudder in a slot, or a link system between the rudder and tiller) I might even have won! They are tricky, those Englishmen ;-)

By the time the competition ended I had discovered that kayaks were an even more efficient way of spending time at sea, so the prototype was built by Wermlandia Båtproduktion and exhibited at the Stockholm Boat Fair, where she attracted a lot of interest from sailors, journalists and boatbuilders.

To date (Summer 2017)41 sets of plans have been shipped, but I am still waiting to start building my own Sharpie 600. There have been a lot of kayak projects in those years.

Sharpie or not?

Sometimes someone voices strong views on what can be allowed to be named a sharpie, and we, who design modern sharpies, are reprimanded for lack of traditional uprightness regarding nomenclature. Real sharpies are long, low and narrow, were nailed together with tongue-and-groove boards and sported two masts with triangular sails. They were fast and more seaworthy than the appearance might suggest. Room under the deck was nothing more than a joke. Standing height in the cabin required a hull length of 15-16 meter – and even then it looked like a high shed on deck – but on the other hand, it was cheaper to nail together a 16-meter sharpie hull than to build traditional 9 meters "normal" sailing yacht. Most of the had centerboard and you could sail up to the beach and disembark with dry shoes. The type is considered to have originated in New Haven in the early 19th century and migrated down the east coast while evolving to suit the local conditions.

My sharpie is too high, wide and short to be a "real" sharpie, according to the defenders of the traditional sharpie. But I am in good company (Phil Bolger, Bruce Kirby et al). The world of sailboats is full of short, wide, and high sharpies – while the "real" ones are displayed in museums. The advantages of the sharpie hull are too good not to be used and developed.

The photos below show the old original sharpie. It is from New Haven and the end of the 19th century.

 

 

New Haven sharpie

One of the better-known versions of the traditional sharpie concept, is Commander Ralph M. Munroe's "Egret", an 8,6 meters long sharpie, based on the classic lines but adapted för pleasure sailing in Florida. Designed in the end of the 19th century, it has been built many times (plans are available from the Wooden Boat Store) and has inspired many interpretations.

Ralph Munroes

Comments

hi there,

can the plan be emailed in dwg or any other compatible format to autocad.

ciao, esko

The plans files are pdf native, and can be converted to dwg and mailed.

Har funderat lite på det här med centerbord och började tänka lite på hur fiskar ser ut. Borde man inte kunna göra ett centerbord som tex ser ut som en Abborres ryggfena. När den är infälld tar den ju inte mycket plats.

Har du någon erfarenhet av något liknande?

mvh

Daniel

Kring förra sekelskiftet hade segelkanoter ofta ett sådant centerbordsarrangemang: fyra, fem lameller (formade som cirkelsektorer med liten spetsvinkel), ofta i bronsplåt, som hakade i varandra som en solfjäder när de fälldes ner. Hela konstruktionen fick ofta plats uppfälld under durken. En mycket elegant men också tämligen ömtålig lösning.

Very nice boat, how much would cost plans in .pdf format?

Bjorn,

What are your feeling towards the different rigs? I have experience with gaff rigged sails, but I've never used a lug rig. From what I've read, the lug should be simpler and less expensive. Does it have any handling advantages over the gaff rig?

Thanks,

Josh

Gigi, the plans price is the same regardless of format.

Josh, some general thoughts on rigs:

Both rigs are a bit archaic in the light of modern racing theory. The advantages of both is that the mast/masts are lower, reducing the heeling moment, so that you can do without a deep weighted keel. Modern high narrow rigs and deep heavy keels has an edge going upwind, but the lower rigs have an advantage in crosswinds and following winds and they are generally easier to manage.

The gaff rig mast sits in a tabernacle, meaning that it is easy to lower (for example, to get under bridges). Since most sailors have some relation to gaffs, more of these are built.

The lug rig is an older type of rig, with a couple of interesting advantages: There is no boom, to hit you gybing. You have no sail over the cockpit flapping in your face. The two-sail configuration gives you a better maneuverability (turning, sailing sideways to quay, backing etc.). The masts are unstayed, so they flex slightly in gusts, spilling wind and reducing heeling. Lugger masts are light and easy to lift in and out by hand (but not as easy to quickly lower as a gaff mast in tabernacle).

The lug was my first choice, designing the sharpie, mainly from previous sailing experience under lug, which made some impression. But many potential builders felt unsecure with so archaic a rig and I received many requests for an alternative. So I designed the gaff version. The gaff outsells the lug 3 to 1. I is my understanding that many builders choose the gaff version for aesthetic reasons, finding it more "ship-like".

Bonjour Bjorn,

Puis-je obtenir chaque dessin au format PDF du Sharpie 600 ?

Je suis intéressé pour faire la construction du voilier.

Merci

Henri

Yes Henri, I can mail the plans as pdf-files.

Som en variasjon; kan lugger-riggen utvides med en jib/klyver på baugspir (antar et løst jib-seil og ikke et stagfestet fokk)? Intensjonen er foruten større fleksibilitet i seilføring at en også kan seile kun med (storm-)fokk og revet hovedseil.

En loggert av den typen har stormasten långt förut just för att slippa komplicera segelsättningen med försegel. Utan sådana är hon mycket lätthanterad – inget segel behöver skotas om vid slagen. Hon seglar ganska bra med bara en bottenrevad stor (aningen tyngre på rodret med ganska okej ändå). En fock skulle flytta fram tryckpunkten ytterligare och göra henne ännu mer tungstyrd. Dessutom skulle jag nog inte vilja krypa fram i fören för att sätta en fock i sådant väder som tarvar bottenrevad stor. Däremot skulle säkert en revad mesan och en liten fock fock tillsammans fungera som en bra hårdvindskombination – och gå att trimma för självstyrning (jag brukar sy mesanseglet av lite tyngre väv än storen för att användas som stormsegel).

Vidare är det svårt att få tillräcklig spänn på förliket på ett löst försegel med ostagade master. En stor undanvindsfock för lätt vind kan funka, men mer tveksamt med ett hårdvindssegel och bidevind.

Men det finns alltid utrymme för experiment och möjliga förbättringar...

Bjorn:

I have been studying Sharpies for a while now and have found that your "600" is the right boat for me. I am in the planing stages for building your boat, but still have questions that I cannot find answers to in the text of your website. Concerning my budget, do you have a list of materials so that I might estimate my costs before commiting to the final project?

Thank you in advance,

John

Bjorn:

I write to inform you of my discovery of the Contessa.no website, where Olle's decsription of materials and construction tips now negates the need for your reply to my previous request. For all who now love the "600", I strongly urge you to view this informative and most helpful site.

Fair winds to all

John

John, same thought ;-)

I linked the video text, and put up some interior photos from Auduns site a few hours before you published your comment (may take a while to notice since browsers may show cached versions first, and Google need a little time to index the new content).

I have to come back to you about the material list. I never worked that out since I never build the Sharpie for myself – got hooked on kayaks instead ;-)

Hello,

Nice to see that so many are interested in the Sharpie. Auduns video really show the beauty of the lines and how well it sails.

/Olle

Olle, nice that you joined the conversation! Been a long time...

Tengo la inquietud de construir un bote muy parecido al Sharpie 600, lo felicito su bote es hermoso

Thanks Ernesto. But I did not understand the first part. Do you have trouble building a similar boat, or concerns about building a Sharpie 600?

I am very happy to get this kind of updates about the small boats . I think its a interesting thing for us to make it.

Hello

I just saw your Sharpie 600. Very beautiful boat!

Do you think it would be possible and useful to put a junkrig on the boat instead the lug rig with using the front mast position as shown in your lug rig plans?

Thanks Gerrit,

In essence a junk rig is a lug rig, so I see no reason why not. But you will still need a mizzen (junk) to balance the boat. A junk sail have more area in front of the mast than a standard non-dipping lug, so you would get the center of effort further up front with the junk mainsail.

The alternative would be to move the mast aft to compensate for the lack of mizzen. The calcuations are not hard to do – find the geometrical center of effort of the combined mailsail-mizzen on the standard lugger (indicated on the plans), and position your junk sail with the center of effort in that position.

Of course you will have to change the interior arrangement to suit – but that can be done quite easily without interfering with the longitudinal balance or sailing qualities.

Hi Björn

That sounds logical and it is.....

I have to say that the gaff rig looks fantastic on this boat. Optical its perfect with that rig. So over all it could be the better (best?) choice, even for me. Are the plans already shown with hollow masts and measurements for that?

And do you have a stability curve from this boat? I would like to know how stable she is. And the outboarder should sit in the cockpit?

I saw the headroom with 1,28. Where did you measure this height? And is the bearth 2m in lenght? Im 1,91m and should have a long enough berth even as comfortable sitting there without to less headroom...What do you think?

If everything is as I see and think up to now, it will be the perfect boat for me. I saw her and I really love her......

The plans include masts, rigging, hardware etc.

I do not have a stability curve, since this will depend on your choice of materials, outfitting, how you use epoxy and fiberglass and a lot of other details. But built exactly as suggested she is self-righting from a position with the masts horisontal – though in a light boat like this the crew will be a large part of the weight and its behavior in a knockdown can make or brake any such statement...

Headroom is from the floor in the galley to the highest point of the underdeck. A small sharpie is never a very comfortable boat for moving around in. Cooking is best done sitting on a low bench opposite the galley, or with the head up the hatch. Seating arrangements as done in the arrangement pics from S/Y Kuling will allow for a decent headroom (99 cm from bench level to underdeck) even for a tall man.

The berths as drawn are 2 m and can be streched slightly if needed. The cockpit benches are 2,32 m and can be used as temporary guest berths under a boom tent.

The Sharpie has a very simple interior arrangement and is therefore easy to adjust to suit the owner.

Hello Björn

Thank you for all the informations.

Hi Björn

Is there any kind of lead ballast in this boat? Or do you think it would be possible to put some (maybe around 150-200kg) in it, for example in an extra keel sole?

Yes, the plans show a sheet of lead on parts of the floor midships. These lead plates can be easily and cheaply made, from fx used tyre balance weights, molten on a charcoal fire and poured onto a plywood sheet with wooden strips as perimeter rim. This sheet can, once cooled off, be shaped to fit the floor curve and glued/bolted in place.

An alternative (not shown on the plans) is to shape an outside shallow "keel" (some 4-5 cm high and 25-30 cm wide) with a slot for the centerboard. The advantage is that the center of gravity is slightly lower and that the lead sole may protect the bottom on shallows and drying moorings.

Sounds very good! So the 600kg weight shown for the boat is with or without the ballast?

Ah,...but a slot for the centerboard? Isnt the centerboard far enough out of the way?

The displacement figure is with the ballast.

And you are of course right – the CB is out of the way, unless you make the "keel" very wide and thin ;-)

Monsieur Thomasson

je suis très interessé par votre sharpie 600 et souhaite vous commander les plans.

est ce possible de vous faire un virement international par l'intermédiaire de ma banque.

Pour cela il me faut connaitre le compte (iban nr)sur lequel je peux effectuer le virement.

question1 le montant doit il etre en euros ou en couronne suedoise?

quel doit être le montant exact du virement?

Autres questions:

Combien de bateau ont été construits à ce jour?

Les plans inclus t-ils les aménagement interieur?

peut ont recevoir une liste avec echantillonages des materiaux nécessaires à la construction?

Merci de votre réponse.

claude Talarmin

sehr geehrter Herr Thomasson,

Ich bin sehr interessiert mit Ihr Sharpie 600 und möchte die Pläne bestellen.

Ich möchte durch eine internationale Überweisung über meine Bank bezahlen

Dafür brauche ich die IBAN NR des Konto wo die Summe überwiesen soll.

sowie der genaue Betrag in Euro oder Schwedische Kronen.

Andere Fragen:

Wie viele Boote wurden bisher gebaut?

Umfassen die Pläne die innere Austattungen?

kann ich erhalten eine Liste der benötigten Materialien notwendig zum Bau des schiffes.

Vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort.

claude Talarmin

4 route des Chevanys

71.100 Baudrieres

Frankrike

tel 00 33 03 85 42 01 98

Du kan kontakta mig på följande språk (i prioritetsordning)

Franska

tyska

engelska

svenska

Sorry about the delay. Your English is probably better than my French (close to non-existent), my German is slightly better, but given the choice I'll take English ;-)

You can order via mail and SWIFT: SWEDSESS, IBAN: SE17 8000 0807 9607 4116 9783, in favour of: Björn Thomasson, Skånevägen 4, S-222 70 Lund, Sweden.

I have shipped 24 Sharpie plans, most in Sweden, the other in Norway, Germany, USA, South Africa, Belgium and France (2).

The plans include a suggested interior layout, simple, functional and designed for minimal upkeep.

I do not have a list of materials prepared, since I never got around to build the boat myself. But the French builders (and many other) are willing to accept contacts from prospective builders. Mail me for info.

HOLA LOS PLANES VIENEN CON ALGUN TIPO DE VIDEO DVD PARA GUIA A LA HORA DE ENSAMBLAR, MANDARIAN LOS PLANES A ARGENTINA, QUE POSIBILIDADES HAY DE CONSEGUIRLOS EN ESPAÑOL??

Hi Fernando,

I had to use Google Translate to understand your questions (my spanish is good enough to order a beer, but not much more ;-). I hope I got it right.

There is no building manual for the Sharpie, primarily because most amateur builders will do better with a comprehensive boat building book, than with a few pages included manual. My first recommendation is "Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction", but there many other excellent books out there – maybe you can find one in Spanish.

The plans are available in English or Swedish only. But normally Google will translate the text on the plans accurately enough to build a kayak or a boat...

Dear Björn,

With lot of interest I read your article about the Sharpie 600.

I am Johan a Dutchman, I live in Spain, ( Costa Brava) and last winter I build myself a kayak.

Project for this winter is going to be a bigger Sail boat, I think your Sharpie is a good candidate.

I will use the boat to do trips during autumn winter and spring in the Mediterranean sea.

Do you know if there are any built here in Spain?

Do you have an estimate of material costs on this boat?

Regards,

Johan.

Hi Johan

No Sharpies in Spain – yet.

And unfortunately no estimated cost. I never got around to build my own. A lot of kayaks got in the way ;-)

The cost is to a large degree dependant on the quality of materials. You could f x use cheap interior plywood covered with fiberglass/epoxy, or you can use marine plywood – prettier och longer lasting. You can make the sails yourself or have them made by a professional sailmaker. You can weld the hardware from standard size iron tube and bars (indicated on the plans) and have them galvanized, or you can buy everything in bronze or stainless from a marine supplier. You can fiberglass the entire hull inside out, or just the seams. You can cast the lead ballast from used tyre weights or buy new lead sheets, etc, etc. The cost would range from reasonably cheap to 5 or 6 times that.

One of the early builders claimed approx € 5800, but that was 13 years ago and I am not quite sure what choices were made.

Hi Bjorn,

Thanks for the reply, I understand.

I think it is a great design it might suit my plans so there is a fair chance I will build it. I'm not sure if it is going to be this winter.

I might do Gavin Atkins Ligt Trow in between to get some experience. But I will be around.

Regards,

Johan.

bonjour j aime bien votre voilier 600/240

j aurais aimé voir plus de photos est possible de ceux qui ont deja construit votre voilier

merci encore

christian

Christian,

Answer in English – I can order a meal in French with reasonable success, but not much more. Use Google Translate if necessary.

37 Sharpies are built worldwide but only those shown have submitted photos – I have added Bernard Goffin, whose building log in French I had forgotten to add in the English page.

Hej Björn!

Grattis till en väldigt vacker "skuta", går i tankar på mitt nästa projekt när min renovering av en 60-tals sportbåt är avklarad till sommaren. =) Blir inspirerad av din "Sharpie 600", den har många kriterier som jag söker.

Tänkte bygga en trailerbar segelbåt med följande kriterier;

- Dagsseglare (öppen båt alternativt delvis däckad, tex för/akterdäck)

- 5-6 meters längd, bredd 1,5-1,8 meter (hanterbar för ensamseglare)

- Plywoodkonstruktion/Glasfiber & Polyester (låg vikt och enkel konstruktion)

- Traditionell stil; bogspröt, 1-2 master, råsegelrigg!

- Hjälpmotor i form av en

Tar gärna emot synpunkter och tips angående detta projekt. Medveten om att råsegel har sina begränsningar, men känner att det är värt besväret. Kan inte båten gå lika högt upp i vind som en "modern" rigg så väger det estetiska tyngre i detta fallet. Båten kommer seglas i öresundsregionen så det kommer vara i relativt skyddade vatten.

Hälsningar

//Ted

Hi Bjorn

Approximately what speed could one expect under power with 9-12 hp engine?

Thanks

Richard Browning

Rickard, 9-12 hp is enough to get her very close to hull speed – which is approx 5,4 knots.

Thanks Bjorn

I was just wondering if that amount of hp might be enough for it to get up on it's step and plane in calm water.

Richard Browning

No, this one does not plane – or rather: she might with a ridiculously oversized engine make a badly handling motorboat; uncontrollable and dangerous...

To plane she would need a straighten-out bottom aft, and preferably some V-shape – resulting in a loss of those sailing qualities I spent much time refining.

Phil Bolger once designed a fast motorsailor along these lines: a kind of step-sharpie hull up forward with a blunt bow, merging into a speedboat style quarter, sporting a 35 hp OB engine and a dipping lug! "Fast Motorsailor" is 22'7" x 8' x 9' and is nicely portrayed in his "Boats with an open mind"

Bjorn:

Beautiful little cruiser. Is the cockpit self-draining and\or can it be modified to be self draining.

Jeff Norman

Thanks Jeff,

The cockpit is not self-draining on the plans, but there are suggestions on how to convert it – such as adding a bridge deck to reduce the foot-well volume and raising the floor with a slight slope, draining through the transom or through the centerboard box (a better option). There are no set dimensions for this conversion but it is quite easy to figure out.

The reason for the non-self-draining option is that it on such a small boat the deeper foot-well offer more comfort in the cockpit:

Hej Björn

Är mycket intresserad av din trevliga båt. Undrar hur den kan röra sig på Nämndö och Kanholmsfjärden, som är kända för oerhört krabb sjö med plötsliga höga vågtoppar?

Vilket LYS kan det röra sig om?

Finns planer att tillverka skrovet i Aluminium?

Skulle det vara intressant tillverka i Kina? Har goda kontakter!

mvh Björn G

Hej Björn

Under segel brukar det inte vara något problem. Lite lutning innebär att skrovet blir V-bottnat. Läns går också normalt bra eftersom man rör sig med vågorna. Att gå för motor i krabb sjö blir gärna lite stökigt, som med alla flatbottnade båtar – men även det brukar lösa sig: vågor hör i våra farvatten samman med vind, och då är det trevligare att segla ;-)

LYS har jag inte en aning om. Jag känner inte till om någon av de hittills byggda (ca 35) Sharpie har tävlat.

Jag har inga planer på produktion i någon form – är helt nöjd med tillhandahålla ritningar. Men om någon vill producera är jag öppen för diskussion om villkor, samarbete etc.

Google does not translate nautical words very well... nice boat! (wonder how she sails in really bad weather?)

No, using Google can sometimes be more fun than enlightening...

But in short: in really bad weather I would rather go kayaking than sail any hard-chine, flat-panel centerboard boat ;-)

It is a boat for protected or alt least semi-protected waters, and even if she is managable in surpricingly tough conditions it is hard work and no fun.

Hello Mr. Thomasson,

you Designed a beautiful boat!

Do you plan to draw a bigger Version, about 8 metres, of this boat?

We are a very tall people. I am 200cm tall and my friend is 195 cm tall.

We want to build a sharpie the next years but have not decieded which one yet.

Best Regards

Sönke

Thank you. I have no plans for a larger Sharpie now – to much other assignments taking all of my time. Besides, I am not quite sure that a sharpie is the way to go, when headroom is high on the wish-list. 2 meter headroom in a sharpie means a very big sharpie, compared to a round-hulled keel boat, where the floor can be lowered substantially in the hull.

Thank you Mr Thomasson,

i do not dream about 2meter standing headroom in a 8 Meter Sharpie. ;-)

But just need good sitting headro0m and a long Berth about 220 metres.

I am thinking about a Princess sharpie 26 by B&B as alternative...

OK, I misunderstood. You may also look at Bruce Kirby's Norwalk Island Sharpies or Jay Benford's Dory line for roomier boats...

Hej

Fantastiska båtar!

Jag har aldrig byggt någon men jag är i byggsvängen.

Det verkar ha tagit Olle ca 5 år att bygga S/Y Kuling till en otroligt bra finish.

Gerard Goffin har ju helt klart valt ett enklare stuk och det är väl vad jag skulle sikta på om jag skulle göra ett försök nån gång. Vad tror du det kan ha tagit honom för tid att färdigställa sin?

Mvh

Jag har ingen aning om hur Goffin jobbat – fick bara en länk till dessa bilder utan några uppgifter om tid.

Olle hade andra båtprojekt parallellt, förutom ett heltidsjobb.

En enkelt byggd och utrustad Sharpie bör kunna vara segelklar på mellan 18 och 24 månaders fritidsjobb – naturligtvis beroende på byggvana, lokal och om man kan få lite hjälp med sådana moment som tar onödigt lång tid för en ensam byggare...

Hi

I am thinking on purchase the sharpie full plans, i only wanted to know if you can send me the stuff to argentina, and also if one person can fit comfortably seated inside de cabin (as if sitting in a chair).

Thank you very much

Hi Nahuel. No problem shipping to Argentina.

I have kept the deck/deck house as low as possible to increase stability and appearance, but with a low seat there is ample headroom on the berth (123 cm from floor to ceiling, or 95 cm over a 28 cm high berth surface) and on a seat opposite the galley (133 cm from floor to ceiling). Not much, but reasonably good for a very small cruiser.

Ibland har man tur! Som jag hade nu när jag sökte uppgifter om hur man bäst bygger ett tabernakel (gångjärn) till en jollemast och hittar din spännande hemsida! Mitt mastoriginal går igenom fördäcket och har mastfoten på kölen. Masten har ruttnat och istället för att laga den med en lång lask har jag börjat fundera på att ställa den i ett tabernakel på däck och som bonus få den fällbar.

Jollen är en dansk 15ft träjolle i mahogny från 1960. I juni i år är tanken att hon skall ingå i en jolleflotta av 3 båtar och seglas av medlemmar ur Dinghy Cruising Association som är inbjudna av mig för ett 5-års "reunion meeting" i skärgården norr om Västervik. De var alltså här och seglade 2009 och blev förtjusta. Den andra jollen är ett hemmabygge av engelsk modell, tvåmastad, 16ft och seglas av Peter Lord från Uppsala.

Jag är mycket intresserad av din Sharpie och du skulle kanske vara intresserad av att delta. Vi delar på matkostnaden. För övrigt fritt logi i skärgårdsstugor eller om du vill i din båt?

Hör gärna av dig och jag kollar bilderna på din tabernakelkonstruktion.

Vänliga småbåtshälsningar

Arne Rudström med hemmahamn Nävekvarn i Bråviken

Tack för inbjudan. Det hade varit trevligt, men jag har ingen segelbåt numera – har gått över helt till kajaker, och är ute mest hela sommaren, antingen på egna paddelturer, på diverse kajakträffar runt om i Skandinavien eller håller kurser i paddling, säkerhet, räddning mm.

Hej.

Jag såg ett inlägg avseende byggtiden. Mitt bygge pågick mycket riktigt under en femårsperiod. Jag började i oktober 1999 och sjösatte 16 maj 2004. Totalt la jag ner 2869 timmar i projektet och den totala kostnaden slutade på drygt 103,000 kronor, inklusive motor och segel.

Precis som du, Björn, kommenterade så hade jag mycket annat på gång under denna tiden och jag tillverkade i stort sett allting själv (dock inte segel och block). Byggtiden kan alltså bli betydligt kortare om man tex köper färdiga detaljer och håller en lite enklare stil och byggkostnaden kan också bli lägre beroende på materialval och utrustning.

Kostnaderna fördelades enligt följande: Material 45%, verktyg/maskiner 10% och utrustning 45%.

Min passion var byggandet så jag la nog ner onödigt mycket tid på detaljarbete och tekniska lösningar.

Hälsningar Olle

Blev grymt sugen på att bygga en Sharpie 600. Har byggt både en stripcanadensare och en Isfjord. Verkar perfekt för skärgård med grunda vikar och skär. Och sen bara upp på en trailer till nästa ställe. Kombinera kajakens framkomlighet med segelbåtens bekvämlighet. Hoppas jag får tid och plats.

Jag har en fundering om centerbord och avdrift. Skrovformen på Sharpie 600 påminner en hel del om Sven Yrvinds YRVIND.COM. Platt botten och skarpa slag. Istället för centerbord har han satt en kant längs en bit av slaget, ut från sidan. Denna kant/fena ska då greppa tag i ytvattnet som ett hyvelblad (?) och förhindra avdrift vid kryss och sidovind. Om båten lutar tar den extra tag. Tror du en sådan lösning skulle kunna fungera på Sharpie 600 också? Skulle minska ner rörliga delar och förbättra prestandan på grunda vatten. Hur skulle motståndet i vattnet bli jämfört med centerbord? Funderar också på om man skulle lägga ett par "medar" i slitplast (typ till hundslädar) längs botten för att skydda den om man drar upp båten på en strand. Även de borde öka kursstabilitet och minska avdriften lite.

Vad tror du om mina funderingar?

MVH

Anders

Hej Anders

Längsgående kant på slaget har även Phil Bolger använt på några segelbåtar (en mycket enkel och typisk bolger-lösning – han placerar helt enkelt slagvägaren på utsidan istället för innanför bordläggningen och får dels en viss kölfunktion och samtidigt ett steg för att klättra ombord från vattnet). Men det blir inte mer än nätt och jämnt en segelbåt av det. Kryssförmågan är rudimentär och man får nog bekänna sig till det gamla brittiska tesen att: "Gentlemen never sail to weather" om man skall bli nöjd med det. För Sven Yrvinds typ av segling är det en rimlig kompromiss: man länsar och slörar med god fart och med vinden mot ligger man mer eller mindre bi på en kryssbog för att inte förlora distans och när vinden vänder länsar man vidare – och som kompensation slipper man en köl som gör båten omöjlig på grunt vatten eller komplikationen med ett rörligt centerbord.

I grundvatten är centerbordet generellt bättre. Om båten inte lutar har du ingen nytta av någon av lösningar, men vid lutning (och lutningen åstadkommer du i lätt vind genom att flytta besättningen till lä reling) kan du dra ner centerbordet delvis och få en betydligt bättre effekt än en kant på slaget.

Men Sharpien är tänkt att vara en effektiv segelbåt på alla bogar, för skärgård och kustnära vatten, utan att behöva starta motorn när vinden om kryssvinkeln går under 70 grader. Så din lösning beror helt på vilken typ av segling du har tänkt dig.

En utvändig kant på slaget skapar turbulens som bromsar och ökar också friktionen något. Ett rätt format centerbord har mindre turbulensproblem och dras normalt upp på läns för bästa prestanda.

Dina medar är en bra idé. Men det finns en ännu bättre: du kan lägga barlasten utanpå i form av en bred blylimpa under den mellersta delen av skrovet. Bly är en mjuk metall med viss stötdämpande funktion om du skulle gå en sten och skulle fungera utmärkt som slitskydd – lätt att slipa och forma vid behov.

Tack för snabbt svar. Tittade runt lite på nätet och chine runners har sina anhängare och motståndare. Får fundera vidare. Egentligen inte svårare än en större skäddabox.

Just öppet bly som slityta tror jag att jag hoppar. Bly är en giftig tungmetall. Avskrapade blyfragment i grunda marina miljöer, nej tack. Visserligen en piss i oceanen, men om man samtidigt ska återvinna glödlampor för lilla blybiten. Blyhagel är bannad i sådana miljöer av en anledning.

Ja, det är en viktig invändning, även om det seglar omkring en förskräcklig massa blykölar där ute...

Hej,

Kanske är det som att svära i kyrkan :) men jag kan ju inte låta bli att undra om någon satt en liten inombordare i den?

Jag vet inte om någon gjort det – ingen har skickat någon rapport eller bild av en sådan installation.

Men jag har själv haft funderingar på (som jag nämnt ovan) en liten inombordsmotor under ett bridgedäck i sittbrunnens förkant – kanske en elmotor kompletterad med ett par solpaneler på rufftaket, och helst en bryggplats med batteriladdning.

Just out of interest Bjorn, which design won the 1996 Classic Boat design competition?

I don't have the magazine easily available, but I think it was some handsome old-style gaff rigged racing dinghy...

A dinghy!

Instead of your gaff/lug rigged sharpie? A design that provided a cabin with overnight accommodation for two, a galley, space for a loo and a chart table?

Cannot help thinking that if you'd shown the judges a Tardis they'd have said "Love the space but it looks like a police box!"

Yes, I was a bit surpriced as well. I do not remember the competition criteria well enough to comment – but they must have offered some leeway...

Hello Björn

you have constructed a very good looking small sailboat.

But it is still way to large for me - I am building sailing models.

So my question is: Is it possible (and allowed by you) to use the pictures on your website for the construction of a sailing model. Scale would probably around 1:20, as I am a great fan of the so called Footy boats (length one foot).

It is not easy to find such a nice looking boat with a gaff rig, which I would like to use.

Thank you with Greetings from Germany

Frank

Hello Frank

Yes you are welcome to use whatever information you can find on my site, and if there are things you need explained in more detail, please mail me.

I would of course appreciate a photo or two of the finished model ;-)

Hi, what a beautiful boat. I've been thinking hard on these line for a long time now, designing my own following principles set down by Micheal Storer and his Goat Island Skiff before it occured to me that I had designed a sharpie!

All my design considerations are the same as you explain particularly regarding ease of handling both onshore and afloat but mine is much more dinghy like and of a lighter "butt joint" construction .

I am lucky to have a mooring in Falmouth and currently sail an old Damio 24. But its only used 4 or 5 times a year and costs a fortune to store and maintain. You have now got me thinking that your boat will show all the Cornish Shrimpers a thing or two!

Hugh

Bjorn,

Any thoughts to a lug rig with a jib? I have desperately fallen in love with the French Luggers and their square meters of Canvass, there is something about the looks of them that seems perfect.. but a regular lug rig looks.. incomplete with a jib in comparison.

sorry.. without a Jib. I need to proof read better

Art, the two-masted lug rig is an old favorite for small coastal craft; luggers, beach boats, drifters, fifies, jolly boats, whale boats etc. My first experience with these were the old Swedish naval whaleboats, which sported a rig not unlike my sharpie, but with lower and wider sails. I was impressed with the simplicity of the standing lug: self-tacking and without booms over the cockpit.

Les bisquines are very beautiful, but they are big heavy ships in need of that incredible amount of canvas, while the Sharpie 600 is a light easily driven boat.

Some of the small luggers carried a jib on a long sprit. That could of course be added to my sharpie as well, but it would be quite unusable close-hauled, since you cannot get enough tension on the luff with unstayed masts, and running it would be shadowed by the mainsail. On a reach in light winds you may get advantages from a jib, but also making the boat a little more hard-mouthed. I doubt it would be worth the trouble, from an efficiency point of view.

Здравствуйте Бьёрн. Очень интересный проект. Но можно ли его изменить так, чтобы кокпит стал длиннее, а каюта короче? В соотношении примерно как у Atkin в его шхуне Florence Oakland http://www.atkinboatplans.com/Sail/FlorenceOakland.html. Спасибо.

Yes, it is an easily achieved adjustment. If you want to use the Sharpie merely as a daysailor, you can cut the cabin short, just as on the Florence Oakland, and extent the cockpit and cockpit benches all the way to the new aft bulkhead.

(Google translate: "Да, это легко достигается регулировка. Если вы хотите использовать Шулера лишь как daysailer, вы можете вырезать кабину Короче говоря, так же, как на Флоренции Окленде, и степень кабины и кабины скамейки весь путь к новой кормовой переборки..")

Could you kindly provide the measurements in English, alongside your Metric ones for those of us too old to go back to school here in the States? Also, are the plans written/drawn in English measurements or only Metric? Thnaks for creating a beautiful design! Where did the plans go in the USA for the Sharpie 600?

Metrics are English all over the world nowadays – except perhaps in the US ;-)

The plans are in English and metrics, and there are a lot of handy unit-converters on the web.

Of the 30 plus Sharpies yet built or under construction, only one is in the US, in PA.

Looks awesome, I was wondering if you detail a hollow birdsmouth mast(stave sizes and taper)

on the plans. I just got back from checking out a Norwalk Island 23 and think your boat is much closer to what I want to sail.

Thanks Patrick, stave sizes and spar shapes are shown the usual way, along with a few short notes on how to use them. Here is a detail from the lug version.

Great thanks

How much are the plans if I send you this USA money, and do they come as paper in slow mail.

According to any one of all the exchange services available on the internet € 240 is about $ 260.

And the plans come as six DIN A1-size papers in slow mail (takes about 10-12 days to the US).

Place the order here on the site and pay online (Paypal does the monetary exchange) or with an attached invoice. Don't forget to indicate which rig option you want (use the comment box).

Ordered the lug rig today

I happened to notice – even if it is 11 PM on my longitude now ;-)

I'll ship the plans on Monday. Thanks...

Great, thanks, I imagine we will be talking more in the future.

You are welcome – and the plans are on their way ;-)

Hi Björn, good morning from Spain. The lenght ( 600 cm. ) is L.W.L. or total? It´s very important for me. Here in Spain, vessel <6 meters L.W.L. don´t pass periodics inspections ( every 5 years ), so you pay only once with register and the first ITB ( Vessels Technical Inspection ).

Regards.

600 cm is total hull length, LOA, (rudder not included).

LWL is approx 505 cm, but this can vary a little depending on the weight of the boat (which in turn depends on chosen material, outfitting, building skills etc).

Hej jag har blivit inspirerad av din Sharpie har tänkt att bygga mig en egen men måste göra färdigt andra projekt först. Men nu undra jag hur den är att segla, du skriver att den snabb för att inte vara beroende av motor så när börjar man reva och vilken vind börjar man få bra fart.

För 30-40 år sedan kunde man ofta läsa i reklamen att segelbåten X kunde bära fullt ställ ända upp i 16-18 m/s – vilket då skulle invagga den ovane båtköparen i trygghet. Vana seglare (som naturligtvis inte var de tilltänkta köparna) hade inga problem att räkna ut att i trevligt segelväder kring 5-6-7 m/s rörde båten sig knappt och motorn startades. När den gravt underriggade båten äntligen började segla på riktigt blåste det så mycket att besättningen flydde in i närmaste hamn.

I motsats till detta har Sharpien rejält med segelyta för att nå skrovfart även i lätt vind. Och nackdelen är förstås att den måste revas tämligen tidigt för att behålla fart, manöverförmåga och, inte minst, komfort. Därför är de rekommenderade riggarna enkla att reva och är ritade för att inte ställa till med några problem även vid oväntade byar: gaffelriggen genom att masten är låg och loggertriggen genom att masten flexar.

Några nyckeltal som ofta används för att antyda fartpotential är SA/SW, l/d, och SA/d.

Den första är segelyta genom skrovets våta yta. Med 21 m2 segelyta och våt yta (inklusive centerbord och roder) på ca 8,8 m2, ger det ett SA/SW på ca 2,4 (över 2 räknas som snabbseglare. Drar man upp centerbordet på en länsbog, hamnar SA/SW på ca 3, vilken är ett rent kappseglingsvärde. Men den kantiga skrovformen hindrar förstås otillbörligt mycket hybris ;-)

Nästa är längden genom deplacementet. Vattenlinjelängden är ca 5,5 m (varierar med fart och lutning) och deplacementet har jag uppskattat till ca 0,9-1 ton (med två-tre personer och semesterpackning). Detta ger ett l/d på ungefär 5,5-6 (över 5 räknas som snabbt).

Det sista är segelytan genom deplacementet, vilket blir ca 21 med samma förutsättningar. Här brukar man ange 15 som en lägsta gräns om båten skall kännas snabb. Extrema prestandabåtar brukar hamna mellan 25 och 30.

Med en grov generalisering skulle jag föreslå att om man känner en svag vind kommer Sharpien att röra sig fullt tillräckligt för att det inte skall kännas frestande med åror eller motor – om man inte har bråttom av skäl som inte har med seglingen att göra. Sedan känns det ganska bra att börja minska segelytan när man kan göra det utan att förlora fart. Det är bekvämast så och båten är mer lättmanövrerad än om den pressas – det kan inträffa någonstans vid 7-8 m/s beroende på den personliga attityden till seglingen.

Tänkvärd är också den gamla visdomen att på kryss tål båten mer än besättningen – på läns tål besättningen mer än båten.

Kanske kan någon av de som har mer aktuell seglingsvana i Sharpien än jag komplettera med egna insikter.

Det låter som denna båt passar mig perfekt åter kommer med beställning närmare sommaren.

Finns det någon mer som har byggt denna båt som kan ge tips och bilder under projektet. Även segling erfarenhet av båten

Bjorn, have you considered a cat ketch rig with sprits? Mainsail might step slightly aft of the lug version but forward of hatch at station (? sorry can't read it), and mizzen might be best incorporated in rear of bridge deck at station (? replaces grating shown on drawings, reducing cockpit volume too). Bit like the NIS boats/B&B etc (only prettier :). Also do you have a way of locking down the centreboard? Looking forward to some more sailing reports! Cheers

I considered a lot of different rig alternatives when drawing the Sharpies. Both the lug and gaff were chosen for a number of reasons, of which my experience with gaffers and luggers were most important. But I also wanted a traditional appeal to match the little boat's lines. The chosen rigs are also efficient with a lot of sail area on relatively short masts, which suits a boat without a heavy keel. A fully battened sail (a modern take on the gaff) achieves the same thing but needs a taller mast.

But the NIS (full-length batten sails on traditional booms) and B&B (Bolger-style leg o'mutton fully battened sails on sprit booms) rigs would do just as fine on my Sharpie. With the masts unstayed and flexible, the disadvantage compared to my choices is hardly noticeable.

I have no plans (nor time) to offer rig alternatives now, but it is a reasonably simple task for a determined builder to do it: just keep the sail area and it's lateral and vertical position approx the same.

There is no way of locking the centerboard indicated on the drawings. I have not seen this as a problem. Boats like this are simply not fast enough for the centerboard to lift. Of course, it might happen occasionally during short surfs off the wind, but why would anyone surf off the wind with the centerboard down? Since this is a cruiser that is supposed to spend most of the time in archipelagoes or close to the shore it is more important that the board can lift if you hit bottom or a rock.

Many thanks for your comprehensive & quick response. Just by way of further explanation, I wondered if, in the unlikely event that one was caught out in a channel (say, the Whitsunday Passage?) by some unexpected weather, a locking centreboard might add an extra margin of safety. Mostly of course one would leave it unlocked (Hill Inlet?! :) Beautiful piece of design too Bjorn, you chose your rigs well.

Thanks Terry. I see the construction methods and details on my plans more as suggestions for those who do not have the experience to do it in their own way.

A centerboard lock would be easy to invent or improvise if conditions should make it worthwhile.

Bjorn,

Have been looking at the 600 for my first building project. Looking for a nice trailerable boat for the shallow waters of the James River in Virginia. I am a tall guy, (2m). How long is the v-berth?

Do you offer study plans?

Thanks,

James

James,

The berth is 196 and will be 200 if you put your head close to the hull and your feet close to the center of the V-berth ;-)

Or you can move the forward bulkhead a couple of inches – of course, at the expense of some locker volume. Theoretically, you could also move the aft bulkhead, but I don't think the galley area should be any smaller than on the plans.

You might also stretch the design some 1-2% to get a little more space (relatively easily done by multiplying all fore-n-aft dimensions by that figure).

I don't have study plans, but if you email me I can reply with copies of the drawings attached.

Hey there, I am pondering building a little camper/cruiser and the your sharpie has made the short list (Bolger's Chebacco being the other option). If a sleeping platform were added in the cockpit to cover the foot well would it be suitable for the kids to sleep in under a boom tent?

...not only for kids ;-) With a footwell cover, you'll get a king size bed at 230x160 cm. Even without a cover, you'll have two cots 230x50 cm. And if you leave the forward part of the footwell (the grating over the drain well on the drawings) open to not block the passage from the cabin, you have a sleeping area of 190x160cm.

A boom tent can be rigged from the gaff or lug sprit (best in a simple boom crutch)

Good to know, I will have to talk to my wife about what we want to do. You don't offer study plans correct?

Hey, I was looking for more construction pictures, and this link showed up... pretty sure someone posted the full plans. Were I you I would request that they remove it. https://www.scribd.com/doc/129319216/Sharpie-600-pdf#logout

Also, whats the outboard arrangement like?

Hi Bjorn,

A very attractive small day-sailer.

Some comments:

1. The gaff is peaked so high it is now pretty much a gunter rig. Workboats used the lug - either fixed or dipping - because it was economical, the mast was short, as was the gaff and the CofE was low. I can see this rig catching every small breeze on a river (it reminds me of the old Thames A-Raters) and in sheltered waters but I would not venture further than that without at least two deep reefs in the main. And flexing in gusts? Maybe the gaff would feather the top part of the sail but the mast bend? I hope not. It is not a Finn racing dinghy.

2. Offset centreboard. What's the problem? It doesn't matter where the board is situated, as long as there is one - ask anyone who has sailed a Thames barge or Dutch botter. I built a Phil Bolger 24ft schooner (also a sharpie) which had an offset daggerboard. Never noticed any difference on either tack. And your arrangement keeps the interior clear - very important in such a small boat.

3. I've done enough rowing, thanks. Is there an outboard well aka the Drascombe Lugger?

4. The major criticism. Plans, Table of Offsets? That is so last century. Why not cutting files, so every part in plywood can be accurately profiled? The builder then has assembly and epoxy filleting only to do. And the fits are better than any builder will manage with his jigsaw. Have a look at our Workstar 17/5.4m (on the webpage), all put together using profiled parts, tabs and wedges. You Licence Fee would cover: the cutting files, construction drawings, assembly instructions, fitting out ideas maybe?

Any competent CAD/CAM designer could do this for you, if you cannot do it yourself - but I suspect you can.

All our work boats are built from kits of profiled material.

Kind regards, Chris Smith, MD, Pacific Workboats cc

And the mizzen is offset too? What's the problem with that?It will work just as well as a C/L mast. People are soo conventional!

Hi Chris

Thank you for the comments, and I am glad you like the little cruiser - but,

1. I don't agree with you on the gaff. On the contrary; looking at small sloops or cutters, historic or contemporary, the Sharpie fits in somewhere in the middle regarding gaff angles. More horizontal gaffs are used primarily on larger craft with big topsails. This is a gaff, in contrast to a Gunther sprit, that is essentially an extension of the mast.

My Sharpie has a relatively large sail area, which means you rarely need to start up an engine. The downside is of course that you need to reef early in a rising wind - which I prefer to motoring in the very light winds, where sailing in a flat-bottom, hard-chined, boxy boat will be a delight and not an ordeal.

And of course, the tabernacled gaff mast with shrouds and stay doesn't flex! But the unstayed lug mast does.

2. There is no problem with an offset centerboard, which I try to explain on the sharpie-page. The same goes for the offset mizzen mast. The only potential problem is the clash with old traditions (even if those sometimes are not as traditional as some chose to believe - which I also mention the page).

3. Rowing isn't a bad alternative since it is a relatively light boat with a healthy sail area that pushes her along faster than rowing even in very light winds. But there are suggestions for an OB either on the transom or in a well, or a small electric motor under a bridge-deck (but not detailed instructions on the plans).

4. My business is plans, not kits. Furthermore, a lot of small things on the plans are suggested, not dictated, and the builder who wishes to do so and have the experience can adjust, change or invent after his or her ideas and experience. The few builders who might feel at a loss without the insert-tab-A-into-slot-A type of instructions will find that I am happy to discuss or advice on anything throughout the building process.

Hi Ben

Thank for pointing out the parasitizing of my website - imagine some clown stealing an entire website page, with headings, photos, formatting, and publishing it on a clueless share-site where you have to subscribe to read what is free on my site!

For engine alternatives I have suggested:

1. A cutout in the stern for a long rig OB, or

2. an OB well in one of the corners for a standard OB, or

3. a small electric motor under a short bridge deck, or

4. oars! This is a light boat with a lot of sail area and rowing would be needed in dead calm only.

These options are not included in the plans but I am happy to discuss and advice if needed.

And it is correct that I don't have any proper study plans, but if you send an email I will answer with printable (desktop printer size) images of the six drawings. Specify if you want the lugger or gaffer.

H Bjorn,

My comment was that with the gaff peaked so high, the rig was close to a gunter. I learnt to sail aeons ago in a lug rigged dinghy and the gaff was at a much lower angle. But I like what you have drawn - and I agree with your philosophy of having lots of sail for light airs, even if you are reefing early in stronger winds.

Is the whole hull glassed? That strikes me as unnecessary. With a 2 x 12mm bottom (very heavy, but I suspect for ballast?) even two layers of glass will add nothing to the strength of the boat. The glass will provide abrasion resistance if you are consistently going up sandy or stony beaches, nothing more.

You are effectively selling a kit. By the time the builder has laid out all the parts and then cut them, he has a kit, from which to build the boat. So, why not leap over all the laying out and start off with the kit? The problem with most amateur boat building is that it takes too long and, not infrequently gets abandoned (and lot of plans are sold and the boat(s) never built - I have a drawer full myself. One day!) Tab A into Slot B works very well. The boat needs no jig or building frame, pulls itself together and with no twist. And the boat gets built quickly - and most amateur builders are building because they want to get afloat asap, not because they are in love with building boats.

Hi Chris

The fiberglass doesn't contribute much to the structural integrity of the hull but reduces upkeep significantly – being a tougher and longer-lasting finish than paint.

But there are options for the hull: from fully glassed inside and out to just glassing the joints, from joining the plywood with wooden stringers to using epoxy fillets and fiberglass etc.

The heavy bottom has a dual function: ballast as you suspect, but also because this kind of boat lends itself to sitting on the bottom in tidal waters or to be beached – the rudder and centerboard swing up easily when hitting the bottom or rocks.

I have over the years noted a slight difference in attitude between my customers in Europe and the US. The European amateur builders seem slightly more confident and competent (buy the plans and a year later email some photos of the finished boat), while many American builders have more need for advice and instructions and ask questions that sometimes surprise me. So, over there I think that kits might have a better market than around here...

Good day!

On the 3D picture of bulkheads assembly, I've noticed that stem and first bulkhead connected to the rest of the construction with just a stringers. Is it normal for hull construction strength? Or maybe there is some more carcass parts, that is not shown on this picture?

Thanks.

Vlad, this is a simplified image to explain the construction method. Building the sharpie you would use a lot more small pieces of plywood and wood – or (which I prefer), epoxy-glass fillets, giving a cleaner and more easily maintained interior.

Hej Björn.

Din sharpie skulle vara ett roligt och spännande projekt att testa. Vet du vad den kostar att bygga, mellan tummen och pekfingret ungefär?

Det är väldigt svårt att ange en siffra, eftersom det beror på många val under byggets gång; kvalitet på plywood, ambitionen med epoxy/glasfiber etc, balansen mellan köpt och egentillverkade detaljer mm – och mina ursprungliga kalkyler (50 000 kr) är 15 år gamla och jag räknade med att sy seglen själv.

Med en grov uppskattning skulle hamna kring 100 000 kr för en sjösatt, segelklar Sharpie, enkelt utrustad enligt ritningen och där du inte shoppat upp dig på dyra köpeprylar.

Jag har precis börjat köpa in material innan jag skall dra igång mitt bygge på riktigt.

När jag läst igenom Olle Jepssons beskrivning tolkar jag det som att han bara kört epoxi/glasfibre på utsidan av båten, stämmer det? Eller är tanken att det även ska vara glasfiber invändigt? Eller är det bara epoxi?

Vore ytterst tacksam för ett litet klargörande :)

Philip, i ett plywoodbygge är glasfiberlaminatet främst till för att skydda träet och för att ge en stabil yta för lackning/målning. Epoxy är ett av de tätaste plastmaterial som finns och skyddar träet mycket bättre än lacker.

Glasfiber på utsidan gör mest nytta, men även insidan utsätts för fukt – det skvätter in vatten, regnar in genom en öppen rufflucka, kondens i fuktigt väder etc. Därför rekommenderar jag laminering av alla plywoodytor i en båt – men det är såklart också en kostnadsfråga.

Risken för skador hänger också samman med kvaliteten på plywooden. Marinplywood är väldigt dyr, vilket motiveras av att allt trä är högklasiigt och att det inte finns några håliheter inne i plywooden. Billigare plywood har ofta lågkvalitetsträ som fyllnad i mellanskikten och det kan finnas större eller mindre glipor, som kan bli startpunkt för fuktskador och röta.

Ju enklare plywood, desto viktigare att kapsla in den på alla ytor med glasfiber/epoxy.

Professionella båtbyggare laminerar inte sällan alla plywoodakivor innan delarna skärs ut. Det ger fördelar, dels genom att det är lätt att få bra finish på hela skivor än på utsågade delar och dels genom att mycket tid sparas. Ett sätt att göra detta på är att laminera skivorna och stapla dem på varandra med plastfolie mellan och pressa ihop hela traven på en gång. Resultatet är färdiglaminerade skivor mef närmast perfekt finish. Men för amatörbyggare är oftast kostnaden för slöseri med glasfiber/epoxy ett större problem än några timmars extra jobb.

En annan fördel med att laminera innan man sågar är att plywooden inte flisar sig. Det blir jämna fina snitt.

Jag har nu påbörjat själva bygget... Riktigt roligt må jag säga.

Alla skott är urkapade och det börjar vara dags att montera själva grundstommen.

Försöker av den anledningen planera lite för kommande steg och har stött på ytterligare en grej jag inte riktigt förstår:

Är tanken att endast sätta bly på de ställen som visas i ritningen, eller skall det sitta symetriskt på båda sidor om centerlinjen?

Huvudsakliga syftet till min fråga är nämligen att jag försöker räkna ut ungefär hur mycket bly jag kommer behöva.

Har du någon ungefärlig uppskattning?

Placeringen och dimensioner enligt ritningsblad 6 (skall förstås sitta symmetriskt på båda sidor om centerlinjen) ger ca 200 kg barlast, som sedan kan behöva justeras beroende på om du använder centerbord av järn (22 mm tjocka blyplattor) eller trä (25 mm tjocklek), och beroende på hur mycket batterikapacitet (och -vikt) du anser dig behöva.

Nice boat. My congratulations

¿Do the plans include the full project for CE mark purposes? . In my country is needed a full project according CE regulations to obtain flag and register.

Thanks for your attention.

CE-certification is the responsibility of manufacturers, producing and selling boats, primarily in the EU.

This site and the comments here are about building a kayak, canoe or boat for your own use – which is an entirely different scenario.

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