Design & Illustration

Fiberglass – epoxy

I recommend an initial (and minimal) coating of epoxy before laying out the cloth. The reason is that with a filled wooden structure it is much easier to control the wetting out of the cloth.

The cloth is quite flexible and can be shaped over most hulls without any wrinkles. Then pour a small batch of mixed epoxy on top of the keel and work it over the surface with a rubber squeegee. Repeat until the cloth is wetted out - i e invisible.

When the epoxy has set (normally overnight), lift the hull from the molds, turn it right side up on a couple of supports - ideally the leftovers from the particleboard you cut the molds from

The inside is then treated the same way as the outside: sanding, coating, applying and wetting out the cloth (on the wall in the left you can see two of my longboards).

That done, and the epoxy cured, it is time to start building the deck…

| Back |


Should the weave be aligned fore & aft or on the bias? For & aft would have half the fibres running in the same direction as the wood fibres, half at right angles. Bias would have half the fibres at +45 degrees and half at -45 degrees to the wood fibres. Half the fore & aft fibres appear to be wasted weight, merely duplicating the strength already present in the wood. Bias seams better because none of the cloth fibres are parallel to the wood fibres. Given that no fibres are wasted in the "bias" approach a lighter cloth could perhaps be used, which would also require less epoxy to wet out resulting in a weight saving. So is biased fibre alignment better than fore & aft?

See comments c4442-c4445-c4450...

But why not test...

Post a comment